A blend of 75% Grenache, 15% Syrah and 10% a mix of other permitted red varieties, the 2020 Chateauneuf du Pape delivers scents of cherries, mocha and earth. It's full-bodied and reasonably concentrated, with an open-knit feel and gently tannic finish. It probably should be consumed within the next decade.

In both 2022 and 2023, I had a chance to sit and taste with Vincent Maurel and his nephew, Valentin, who recently completed his enological studies. The opportunity to compare and contrast the 2020 and 2021 vintages at this benchmark estate makes for compelling "work." Other members of the next generation are expected to join the business in the next several years, with Vincent's son, Hugo, currently studying enology in Spain and his niece (Valentin's sister), Claire, studying commerce. The future of this family estate of 48 hectares seems secure, although, as Vincent points out, "The estate, which arrived from my father, grandfather and great-grandfather, is not a cash machine."

All of the various cuvées that emerge from the modern cellar in the village of Châteauneuf-du-Pape are consistently excellent, but the Maurel family seems to excel in difficult vintages. Perhaps it was just the different behaviors of the vintages post-bottling, but I actually preferred the fragrance and perfumes of the 2021s at this domaine.

Vincent Maurel described the year as marked by frost, then being relatively cool and rainy, resulting in more elegant, softer wines. Most of the estate wasn't damaged by the frost (only about 10%, according to Vincent), so it was a question of spraying regularly and staying on top of mildew pressure, much like in 2018 or 2011. He seemed to prefer the 2020s, saying, "I love this year because all the different elements are in their place. The right balance, you have the structure, you have the maturity, but you also have the freshness."

Quantities of the 2022s will be very limited, and some cuvées may not be bottled, as much of the family's holding are in la Crau, which was heavily impacted by the hailstorm that swept across that portion of the appellation on August 14. Fans may therefore want to buy up ample stocks of the 2020s and 2021s

Galloni 92, 

2020 Chateauneuf du Pape Clos Saint-Jean